Toranosuke

Follow the flavours of hamo from one dish to the next, then finish with somen in a broth enriched by the meal. Toranosuke’s natural hamo course offers more than simply gathering around a hot pot. One diner’s account describes a sequence starting with chilled hamo soup, followed by hamo with plum, tempura, hamo shabu-shabu and somen. The dish that stayed with the diner was the hamo with plum: the flesh came apart in soft, full flakes, paired with plum paste whose acidity was restrained. The fried dish, they noted, had a light batter and a pleasing contrast with the texture of the hamo.

At the heart of the course, the hamo shabu-shabu included not only the flesh but also the swim bladder, liver and skin, according to the account. Dipping the pieces into broth sweetened by onion, and comparing the gelatinous texture of the different cuts with the flesh, are part of the appeal. The closing somen was served in broth infused with the flavours of hamo and vegetables; the diner noted that even the portion for two was generous. If you come for hamo, it may be worth saving room for the final course.

For fugu, the thickness of the tessa is one choice to consider. The menu offers the dramatic-looking Large-Plate Tessa, as well as thick-cut Special Chunk-Cut Tessa, described as a good match for garlic and Chinese cabbage. They offer different ways to enjoy fugu sashimi. For something fried, the menu describes torafugu karaage as “crispy outside, juicy inside”. Alongside courses built around hot pot, the à la carte selection includes fugu sushi and fugu cooked on a ceramic plate.

Hirezake—sake served with grilled fugu fin—is another drink option. The menu notes that junmai sake is selected for it, making it a choice for a leisurely meal centred on fugu. Toranosuke offers hamo courses and fugu courses that can include tessa, hot pot and a closing dish, making them an option for groups to share around the pot. Private rooms are also available. At this branch in Higashinodamachi, Miyakojima Ward, diners can plan the evening around either seasonal hamo or fugu.